A What Vehicle?

1 What classic car?

Your choice of vehicle is of course up to you, but some are more suitable than others. The main requirements are strength and reliability, rather than outright speed.

Pre-war cars, especially vintage ones, have some things in their favour. Most cars made before 1930 were built to run on unmade roads, as these were the norm away from cities, and have strong chassis, large wheels and good ground clearance. However, our events sometimes cover long daily distances and we recommend that pre-war cars should be able to sustain 80 - 90 km/h (about 50 - 55 mph) Pre-war cars will need to be relatively strong and fast for their period. Big vintage sports cars like Bentleys are an obvious choice, but cars like Model A and V8 Fords, and other American saloons, have proven records.

Among post-war cars, obvious candidates are Mercedes, Volvo and Peugeot - all with an excellent record on old events in Africa and South America. Peugeot 404 and 504 are still fairly common in Africa, and spares are relatively widely available.

Citroen DS/ID models are useful performers if the complicated parts don’t break - the suspension system soaks up the bumps and protects your car and crew from the worst effects of the jolting; and the car can be raised to go over rough bits or deep water. Other good contenders might be bigger European Fords (Cortina, Zephyr, Taunus); Austin A90/A95 models (shades of Richard Pape); Humber Hawk/Super Snipe; BMWs: and various models of Rover (especially perhaps the V8 engined P5B).

It’s worth remembering, too, that an early Range Rover would also be eligible, as would some American 4WD vehicles. Other American cars may also be good. Australian cars are probably a useful bet - Holden for example. Datsuns, too, had a formidable record in rough endurance rallies in the 1970s.

Among the sports and GT cars, Mercedes coupés and cabriolets must again rank among the favourites; but a Porsche or a Datsun 240Z could do well, and a well prepared Austin Healey or MGB may surprise them.

Let’s not forget that some smaller cars may have a good chance, too - especially given that there is no overall winner, and that a gold medal can be won by performance in your class. Saab and VW Beetle are both strong cars with excellent records at rough-road rallying. Beetles have the advantage that they were made until recently in Brazil, so knowhow and spares are widely available.

These are a few of the more obvious choices - but you may be able to think of something else, or simply be the kind of person who prefers to do things your own way.

2 What 4x4?

Almost any reputable and robust 4x4 will be suitable for one of our longer 4x4 Adventure Drives (although perhaps the smaller recreational types are less so). We are not in the business of recommending one make over another, but a few jottings may be helpful.

(i) Think about taking a diesel because

(a) diesel fuel is much more widely available than petrol in some countries, notably parts of Africa where trucks are commoner than private cars

(b) diesel fuel is cheaper in many places

(c) diesel vehicles are more economical

(d) this gives them longer range for a given tank size/weight of fuel

(e) a diesel engine copes better with dirty fuel

(f) you avoid the "leaded/unleaded" problem (see notes on fuel in the "Travelling off the Beaten Track" section)

(ii) Much the commonest make of vehicle in Africa is Toyota. Spares are available everywhere. Nissan and Mitsubishi are also fairly common; Isuzu less so, although these are more plentiful in southern Africa.

(iii) Land Rovers are widespread throughout Africa, and are very well thought of. Spares are widely available, especially for the older leaf-spring models - one of these, well prepared would be a sensible choice of budget vehicle.

(iv) The commonest type of 4x4 in Africa is the pick-up such as a Toyota Hi-lux. A high clearance crew-cab pick-up with canopy, like the Vauxhall Brava we used on the route survey, would be a good choice of vehicle. It has the advantage that spares, fuel, etc. are carried within the vehicle but not in the passenger compartment. On the other hand, it is less comfortable than a car-style 4x4, and is quite a bit slower, which may make for longer days.

B Vehicle Preparation

1 Golden Rules

We cannot possibly give detailed advice on vehicle specification and preparation which covers every type of 4x4 and classic car that might be entered for one of our events. These notes must therefore be regarded as general guidance only.

Three important principles are:

1 KISS - keep it simple, stupid

2 Travel light

3 Prepare your vehicle from the ground up

Rule 1 Keep it simple.

Although it may be tempting to run a high-specification vehicle, the old hands will tell you that it is best to have as little to go wrong as possible.

For classic cars, this means not fitting a highly tuned engine - keep to standard specification, or only make modifications which improve reliability and efficiency (such as balancing and strengthening), rather than power output or performance.

The best modern 4x4s are highly reliable vehicles in standard form, used widely in the countries we visit, and there is no need to spend a lot of money on special preparation - something like a Land Cruiser, sensibly driven, should be able to cope "out of the box", especially if you just take a couple of suitcases.

On balance, we suggest that you don’t choose too luxurious a specification.

Things like air conditioning, automatic transmission, central locking and electric windows add weight, in some cases absorb power and add to the strain on the engine, and can cause knock-on problems if they do become faulty. The jury is still out on power steering and turbochargers, as these do confer genuine advantages, but you are probably better off without. A high-spec vehicle is also a more tempting target for thieves and hijackers.

Rule 2 Travel light.

This is the most important Golden Rule for tough long-distance rallies and drives. Excess weight is easily the single most common cause of mechanical problems, putting extra strain on chassis, springs, shock absorbers, brakes, transmission and engine. Leave the kitchen sink at home!

This means cutting out most "contingency" items, like heavy spares and extra equipment. You aren’t going on an expedition across uncharted terrain, and you won’t need things like sand ladders or lots of extra lights. Except for those in smaller cars, you shouldn’t even need a heavy roof rack - if you do, you’re probably carrying too much! I would personally not fit a winch or a bull bar, as you are not likely to need either, but this is up to you. You shouldn’t need a deep water snorkel, but some people like these as they help keep the dust out of the engine.

Don’t take too much personal baggage. Try and limit yourselves to one grip or small suitcase (airline cabin baggage size) per person. (All the rest-day hotels have a same-day laundry service, and we try to organise overnight laundry where possible). A well-known saying is "Take half the clothes you think you may need, and twice the money"!

On the other hand, there are important simple spares and tools you should take - see below - and of course you must be able to carry five litres of fresh water per person and enough fuel to give you a reliable range of 500km.

Rule 3 Prepare your vehicle from the ground up.

You should prepare for strength and reliability, not speed. Although we try to avoid very bad roads where possible, inevitably in remoter parts of the world there will be some rough going, and many miles of gravel or bumpy tarmac where the car will be subject to small stones, rattling and vibration.

The order of priority is therefore:

i tyres

ii suspension

iii chassis

iv cooling

v electrics

vi engine and transmission

vii other items

2 Tyres and Wheels

Your most important and most vulnerable component. Your biggest enemy is punctures, so choose tyres that are as near bombproof as possible.

The ideal tyre is one which is very hard wearing, with a strong carcass and thick, strong sidewalls (these last are especially important on stony or potholed roads). It must have reasonable all-terrain capability, but should not be a specialist mud, sand or snow tyre, as these tend to get hot and shed chunks of themselves at high speed on asphalt, especially if the vehicle is heavily laden - bear in mind that you may be travelling fast across the Namibian or Atacama Desert, on good smooth tarmac, in temperatures of 40C - plus! Good grip, road holding and handling are of secondary importance.

In Africa, Firestone CV2000s or ATX are well thought of, as are Bridgestones, but they may only be available in a limited range of sizes.

Bridgestone/Firestone UK will advise participants on the best choice for their vehicle and they have in the past supplied tyres at a discount to those who agree to display small stickers, (see address list).

We advise you to carry two spare wheels, plus one or more spare tubes. Carry at least one spare wheel where you can get at it without unloading everything else. Both should be securely fastened.

If possible, you should consider fitting 16" tyres (4x4s) or 13" (classic cars) as these seem to be the most commonly found tyre sizes in Africa and other places.

Tyres are obtainable in the main sizes at most towns along the route, and we advise you to buy new tyres on the spot, as you need them.

On a 4x4, use heavy duty (truck) wheels if these are available. Don’t use cast alloy wheels, as these fracture unless you have rally-quality high-grade magnesium ones, don’t use cast alloy wheels, as these fracture rather than bend; steel ones can be hammered straight when you hit a rock.

3 Suspension

For 4x4s, we suggest fitting heavy duty shock absorbers, such as Proflex (see below), but the standard suspension of any reasonably robust and "serious" 4x4, should cope if the vehicle is not overladen. Fit heavier duty options to tropical specification if these are available.

For classic cars, it is essential to ensure that:

(i) your ground clearance is good: the more the better, but for your own comfort and peace of mind we recommend a minimum of 20 cm (8 inches) - more if your car has big front or rear overhangs. (You will get there with less clearance, but you will have to drive more carefully and slowly in places.)

(ii) your suspension has plenty of travel: life will be very much easier if your suspension can soak up bumps.

(iii) your springs and shock absorbers are strong: heavy duty suspension is essential - but it should not be too rigid and transmit the shocks to the car.

We recommend Proflex as a good shock absorber; for further information contact: Gordon Birtwhistle (see address list).

4 Classic Car Chassis

Unless your car is a particularly strong model, classic car chassis should be strengthened at key points, especially spring and shock absorber mountings. Make sure that engine, gearbox and radiator mountings are also strengthened, with heavy duty rubbers.

Protect drain plugs, sump, fuel tank, brake liner and vulnerable transmission parts, with strong underbody plating.

Use foam between skids and guards and the sump or whatever else is above to protect against impact damage, and to prevent stones getting caught in the gap and wearing a hole.

Fit strong bumpers and towing eye; these should be mounted quite high, and not too far under the vehicle, up for easy access.

5 Cooling

Ensure that the cooling system will stand up to labouring up mountain passes at altitudes of up to 3,000m (10,000ft) in Africa, and up to 5,000 m (16,000 ft) in the Andes or Himalayas, and sustained high speed running at desert temperatures of 40C - plus. Make sure the system is clean and free-running, and that the water pump is good and powerful.

For 4x4s: most modern vehicles should cope, but check with your dealer, and fit tropical specification options if available.

For classic cars: you should consider fitting:

(i) a larger radiator and/or header tank

(ii) an oil cooler

(iii) an electric fan

(iv) improved air circulation, in and out, by e g additional inlet/outlet vents; ducting; fastening the bonnet slightly open; etc.

(v) suitable thermostat

(vi) high-pressure radiator cap

If you fit an electric fan, make sure it has a manual switch. Switch it off and cover it with a plastic bag before fording a river. Kenlowe electric fans are recommended, and are available from Demon Tweeks (see address list).

One major cause of punctured radiators is for the fan to act as a boat propeller and pull itself into the radiator when fording a river. To get round this, take the blades or fanbelt off if you have to go through deep water.

We also advise protecting the radiator with a stone guard.

6 Electrics

This is a vital component. Make sure all wiring is in good shape, especially on a classic car, and that all electrical components are correctly selected and installed. Do NOT economise on electrics - a new 4x4 is of course likely to be perfectly ok, but if you have an older vehicle have it checked and if necessary have it professionally rewired. Fit a new battery.

Ensure that the electrics are well waterproofed - some Third World rivers and streams can get unexpectedly deep - and carry a plastic bag to tape over the distributor, and a can of WD40, just in case! If you have to ford a river or drive through torrential rain, give all the under-bonnet electrics a good spray with WD40.

All leads and the ignition cap must be made waterproof. If the distributor cap is sealed tightly, you will need to fit a breather tube to enable oxygen to flow in.

On any vehicle it’s a good idea to fit an extra cigar lighter socket, to give you somewhere to plug accessories into.

7 Exhaust System

A vulnerable component of classic cars. They must comply with the events noise regulations, or you will not pass scrutineering; and if your exhaust gets too noisy during the event, you may be penalised, or even excluded from the results, on the spot.

You must ensure that the exhaust is in good condition, and that it is not too close to the ground and will survive bumpy roads.

See Bill Price’s notes in Appendix A.

Paradoxically, exhaust systems which are slightly loose-fitting are less likely to fracture than those which are welded up solid. Steel battery-straps slung from the chassis under the exhaust will keep it from falling off altogether if it does break.

8 Lighting

On most of our events there isn’t much driving at night in theory, but it’s probably a good idea to have a decent pair of spotlights and a good reversing light. Good under bonnet, boot and interior lights are also a boon.

You will need to have powerful lights. We recommend that you fit stone mesh covers for protection (such as those supplied with Oscars and Super Oscars) or, if possible, that you turn the lights inwards during the daytime. Classic-style Oscar and Super Oscar lights can be obtained from Demon Tweeks (see address list).

For classic cars it is possible to buy round 7" acrylic headlamp covers to protect spot lights: the Signam Lamp Guard. These attach to the lamp with adhesive pads, cost £18 per pair in 1998, and are available from Signam Ltd (see address list).

Arylic headlamp covers to protect spot lights: the Signam Lamp Guard. These attach to the lamp with adhesive pads, cost £18 per pair in 1998, and are available from Signam Ltd (see address list).

9 Mechanicals

Obviously, make sure that the car is generally in tip-top mechanical shape, especially brakes and steering. See Bill Price’s notes in Appendix A.

10 Stowage

Make sure everything is carefully stowed and fastened down, especially the heavy items like spare wheels, spare parts, fuel cans and luggage. The battery must be well fastened down.

Make yourselves a plan of where everything is stored in your vehicle.

Carry spares in sealed plastic boxes where possible.

Ensure that everything is stowed neatly and tightly and in its correct place, and cannot move around, and is PUT BACK THERE after being taken out.

Remember that fuel cans must NOT be carried inside the passengers compartment.

11 Security

Ensure that the car can be securely locked up, with no valuable or desirable items left visible or accessible. Fit chains and padlocks to any items carried externally, including fuel, oil and radiator caps. Bolt a strong box out of sight on the floor to hold cash/passports, etc. Always lock your car and hide any valuables.

12 Crew Comfort and Safety

Make sure that

- your seats are comfortable and give good support

- the ventilation is good (African rallyists use small hinged vents in the roof, facing forwards!)

- you have amply secure and handy stowage for the navigator's paperwork and paraphernalia

A fire extinguisher of at least 2 kg is compulsory for all vehicles. This must be securely fastened, within reach of a crew member.

A first aid kit is compulsory - see separate Medical Notes.

All vehicles should be fitted with airhorns, which can be operated by both driver and co-driver as necessary - a foot button for the co-driver is a good idea.

Seat belts are compulsory for most cars in most countries, and we recommend that you fit and use them whatever the age of your vehicle.

We do not recommend fitting a roll cage into a saloon car or fully closed 4x4. If you roll, the danger of creasing your skull on the tubing is greater than that of the roof collapsing, unless you are wearing a crash helmet. Roll cages should however be fitted to open and soft-top vehicles, and should be considered for those with detachable hard tops (including Land Rovers).

If you do fit a roll cage on any car (i) you MUST wear tight full-harness competition-style belts at all times; (ii) you must pad the tubing well at all points where your head or body might make contact in an accident; and (iii) you should if possible wear crash helmets.

13 Period Authenticity

Classic cars taking part in a HERO Classic Reliability Trial should be to correct period specification, except where otherwise permitted by the Regulations. This does not mean totally standard: modifications used at the time are allowed. We turn a blind eye to minor anachronisms, given the difficulty today of finding genuine period bits when restoring a car, but we will expect major items to be correct, like the size and state of tune of the engine; the size and type of brakes (especially, whether drum or disc); the wheel and tyre sizes; the body style; etc.

We also in general allow the specification to be uprated by fitting components from a later variant of the same model (e g 1800cc engine and disc brakes to a 1950s Volvo PV544), but these will place the car in the Age Category at which these items became available. Cars in any given Age Category may NOT have major components of more recent date.

You MUST declare on your entry form all variations from the specification of your car as it was manufactured as these may place you in a different class, or be prohibited altogether. (This does not apply to pre-war cars, where different eligibility rules apply, based on those of the VSCC).

We do not like cars to have more modern road wheels than would be correct for the period. Please do NOT arrive with (e g) a 1950s car on Minilite wheels.

14 Bill Price’s Historic Car Preparation Hints

Bill Price has very kindly let us have his notes, based on many years of experience. These are attached as Appendix A.

You will see that his advice sometimes differs from ours - great minds don’t always think alike! This is in part because his notes are primarily applicable to higher speed competitive events, where performance, and strength when driven flat out, are of greater importance. Nevertheless, much of Bill’s advice applies to this event, too; and all of it is very good.

C Spares and Equipment

It is easy to overload your car with spares and tools. Excessive weight adds a great strain to its suspension and transmission. "Travel light" is always the best motto. So in a small car you may be better off not taking all the items below.

But there are some basic items which everyone should carry. What you actually take depends in part on the carrying capability and power of your car, in part on its known weak spots, and in part on your own ability to work on it!

Here is our suggested checklist for classic cars - 4x4s are hopefully not as vulnerable, but this list is still largely applicable (again, not comprehensive):

1 Water

- 5 litres of drinking water (preferably bottled mineral water) per person (compulsory for all crews)

2 Spare Parts

- two spare wheels (both properly mounted; at least one accessible without major unloading).

- spare fuel container(s): properly designed metal cans (e g 20-litre jerricans) to give you a range of up to 500 km. These should not be filled except when necessary, and must be securely fastened. They must not be carried in the passenger compartment.

- additional spare inner tube(s)

- fanbelt (or 2)

- top & bottom radiator hoses

- extra coil (NB this can be wired in place so it can be connected quickly if required)

- extra fuel pump (NB this can be wired in place so it can be

connected quickly if required

- distributor cap (possibly, distributor unit too)

- rotor arm

- set of points

- set of spark plugs

- fuses

- condenser

- voltage regulator

- spare electrical switch(es)

- light bulbs (full set, including interior/map lights!- in some countries, it is a legal requirement to carry a spare set of bulbs)

- wiper blades (fit new ones before the event, too)

- spare radiator cap (and/or wire/chain the cap to the bodywork)

- spare fuel filler cap (and/or wire/chain the cap to the bodywork)

- speedo cable (especially if relying on speedo-driven Halda)

- extra set of wheelnuts (or centre-lock spinners, one for each direction)

- extra set of wheel studs

- gasket set

- temporary windscreen

- if you can spare the weight: bigger items such as dynamo, an alternator, battery, halfshafts, etc., especially if these are weak points on your car

3 Tools etc.

- 2 electric torches, with spare batteries and bulbs

- warning triangle (compulsory - a cheap light one is best, as you’ll probably leave it behind if you have to use it!)

- top quality tow rope: long and strong, and preferably with shackles at each end: (A winch is not essential)

- jump leads

- engine oil: 1 or 2 litres (replenish by buying en route)

- tube of grease

- funnel (cranked, if necessary, or add old rad hose - plastic funnel is lighter than metal)

- top class fuel filter (possibly combined with above)

- heavy duty jack - a trolley or high-lift jack if your car can easily carry it - together with strengthened and accessible jacking points

- strong flat bit of wood, for putting jack on

- axle stands - heavy but desirable if you can carry them (get aluminium ones if possible) (NEVER get under the car when it’s on the jack alone - put the spare wheel under the sill, if that’s all you’ve got)

- reasonably strong plastic sheet or old sack, for lying under the car on

- usual toolbag: spanners, socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, snips, Allen keys, star drives, plug spanner, feeler gauges, adjustable spanners, Mole wrench, sharp knife, hand drill, etc.

- tyre levers (optional - they are heavy) - again consider aluminium ones

- magnet on flexible stalk

- good wheelbrace (not the flimsy standard item - carry that as spare)

- spare nuts, bolts, washers, etc.

- half a dozen bungee straps (the rallyman’s no 1 friend!)

- big roll of genuine, strong canvas tank tape - the real article is VERY expensive, so don’t lend it!

- lots of cable ties (strong nylon ones are the most versatile)

- good lengths of electrical wire, for emergency repairs (including tying things back on)

- insulating tape and/or masking tape

- string

- armoured plastic tubing

- aerosol of puncture mousse

- Jubilee clips, medium and small, for (i) rad hoses; (ii) fuel lines

- WD40

- screen cleaning detergent

- screenwash/antifreeze fluid

- radiator welding fluid

- gasket leak ditto

- tube of Gun Gum

- tube of Swarfega

- leather/cloth for cleaning screen

- Araldite/superglue/JB weld

- de-icing fluid, and scraper

- your vehicle’s owner’s manual, and preferably workshop manual

If you can, go round the vehicle to check what spanners/sockets/drivers you actually need to work on key components, and take just these.

Fuel filters, temporary screens and hi-lift jacks can be obtained from Tim Riley Engineering (see address list)

You will note that a lot of the above items are for crudely lashing things back together, when they break or fall off. Well, that’s rallying!

D Navigation and Communications

1 Road Book

On most events, a detailed, rally-style Road Book is provided for the bulk of the route. It gives a diagram for each key junction, together with the distance to it to the nearest 10 meters, and the road number and signpost to be followed.

Easy link sections on main roads will not necessarily be covered by a full Road Book to the same amount of detail, but this should not present problems as the route will generally be easy to follow.

2 Navigation Equipment

For a Classic Reliability Trial, the following are suggested. Items marked (+4x4) will also be helpful to 4x4 Adventure Drive participants.

- dashboard-mounted compass (shielded from interference by the car’s metal or electrics) (+4x4)

- good flexible map-reading light (+4x4)

- lightweight hand-held spotlight, with plug for cigar lighter socket, which can double as an inspection light (+4x4)

- at least one good time of day watch or clock, plus spare (+4x4)

- at least two stopwatches, for regularity timekeeping (NB dashboard-mounted clocks/watches may look fancy but are harder to use and read in a bouncing car that those on your wrist or in your hand)

- mapboard and/or clipboard(s) - it’s useful to put your timecard on a clipboard (preferably one with a transparent plastic cover - but make sure the marshal doesn’t write on this instead of the card) (clipboard: +4x4)

- several large bulldog or foldback document clips (one or two: +4x4)

- two or three pens

- lots of soft pencils (B or 2B), or a couple of 0.9mm B or 2B mechanical pencils with spare leads

- 2 or 3 large soft rubbers

- if using wooden pencils, good pencil sharpener (rotary if possible)

- electronic calculator

- possibly, average speed tables (not essential)

- miscellaneous stationery: notepad, sellotape, scissors, stapler and staples, glue stick, etc. (+4x4)

GPS units, such as Magellans, are permitted, but are not likely to be of great help on events whose route is primarily on well defined roads.

Dashboard - mounted equipment (trip, GPS, satphone, etc.) should be fastened with Velcro, enabling it to be easily removed at night.

3 Communications Equipment

Our Regulations permit participants to carry satellite phones, mobile phones and/or radios, provided these are registered in advance with the Organisers on the form which will be provided.

All participants are actively encouraged to carry a satellite telephone, so as to enable emergencies to be better dealt with.

However, note that many countries have laws and regulations concerning the importation and use of radios, mobile phones and satellite phones. It is your responsibility for ensuring that you comply with allsuch laws and pay any necessary import duties or licence fees.

If any participant is detected transmitting information which might give a competitive advantage to another participant, such as the location of a secret check both participants will be excluded from all further participation, and the Organisers shall have the right to impound their communications equipment.

4 Paperwork Checklist

The navigator should ensure that the crew have the following at the start:

- club membership cards for HERO or 4x4xplore, for ALL crew members

- outside Europe, International Driving Permits for all crew members driving during the event

- insurance documents as applicable

- vehicle registration documentation

- outside Europe, Carnet de Passage en Douane

- event Regulations, Final Instructions, etc.

- for classic cars, documentary proof of the period authenticity of modifications

- "SOS/OK" board

E Breakdowns and Emergencies

Any HERO long distance event is a serious challenge which involves a real element of risk to you, your crew and your car. You should not take part unless you accept this.

We reiterate the point made in the Regulations: if you have an accident or breakdown on any part of the event, you should NOT expect help from the organisers as of right. All HERO long distance events are in part a test of your own resourcefulness, initiative and determination, and you are primarily expected to get yourselves out of trouble if you get lost, break down or put your vehicle into a ditch.

Sweeper cars follow the route. Each of these cars will normally contain at least one medically trained person with some basic medicaments and medical equipment; and a trained mechanic with simple spares and tools. It will also normally be equipped with a satellite telephone.

The function of the sweeper cars is merely to provide immediate first aid, a "quick fix": to pull your car out of a ditch or waterhole, to tow you or give you a lift to the next town or telephone, to treat minor wounds and ailments, or to make on-the-spot simple repairs. They are there to help all participants, they must keep roughly to rally schedule, and they cannot afford to spend much time at any one incident unless there is a serious emergency.

They will travel within and behind the convoy, and may be delayed in helping other crews in trouble, so they may thus arrive anything up to three hours after you. They will therefore almost certainly NOT be the first vehicle to arrive at the scene of an incident or emergency. The next people along are most likely to be other participants - maybe you.

All participants must carry a two-sided A4 board, with "SOS" on one side and "OK" on the other. If you stop by the roadside but there is no emergency, please show the "OK".

Even on competitive rallies, the tradition and ethics of rallying are that competitors stop to help each other. If you see anyone in trouble, or signs of a car having left the road, STOP and make sure that no-one is injured before proceeding. If someone is hurt, looking after them takes absolute priority. In the case of a timed event, we will normally waive penalties for time lost helping injured persons.

In less serious cases, please stop and help if you can do so without affecting your own performance. Someone on a competitive event who is in trouble but not in danger has no right to expect another competitor to forfeit an award to help them out, but if you have time in hand or if you are not in the running for major honours, you should always stop and assist. 4x4 Adventure Drive participants should of course always do so.

If you are the crew in trouble on a competitive rally, but do not need emergency medical help, please put out your warning triangle, show your OK board in your window and wave other competitors through, so that they if they are pressed for time they do not lose marks by stopping to check that you are all right.

You should of course also stop to help other road users in trouble, especially in remote areas, but be very careful about possible bogus breakdowns or accidents, set up by hijackers.

F Travelling in Africa

These notes were prepared specifically for our London to Cape Town events, but many of the points made will apply in other tropical and third world areas.

1 Fuel

1. Fuel is by and large very much cheaper in Africa, and especially in the Middle East, than in Europe. However, in some places, it is difficult to obtain.
2. In Ethiopia (and to a lesser extent Eritrea and remoter parts of Kenya and Tanzania), there are fuel shortages, and many of the stations have we encountered on route surveys have been ‘dry’ that day - in some towns, only one station out of three or four had a supply.
3. In these countries especially, diesel tended to be easier to find than petrol. Many stations have diesel pumps only. If you have a choice for an event going through these countries (e g if you are doing the 4x4 Adventure Drive), we advise a diesel rather than a petrol vehicle.
4. Unleaded petrol is virtually unobtainable in many third world countries, so remove your catalytic converter if you have one.
5. Petrol octane ratings vary greatly. In southern Africa, 97 octane is obtainable, but in Ethiopia (and parts of eastern Europe), fuel is much poorer - down to 80 octane.
6. Filter ALL fuel, preferably with a good multi-gauze filter, and protect all fuel and brake lines in metal piping.
7. Filling stations, with a few exceptions, do not take credit cards, even in South Africa.
8. All filling stations on the route, except in major centres, will be shown in the official Road Book. This should NOT be taken as an indication that fuel will be available, especially in Ethiopia.
9. Official fuel halts/filling stations will be designated, and shown in the Road Book as such. At these, we will have made arrangements with the operators to be open and have supplies available - but Africa being Africa, even this is not a cast iron guarantee of a supply!
10. You are reminded that you should be able to carry enough fuel for up to 500 km between filling stations. They are especially thin on the ground in Namibia (although they are of European standard when you find one!)
11. Be aware that silicone brake fluids and synthetic engine oils are not available in Africa and do not mix with vegetable oil based products.

2 Roads and Traffic

1. Road signs are virtually non-existent in some African countries and there may be anything round the corner, or over a brow, from a bad washaway to a hairpin, a herd of goats, a broken-down vehicle, a missing bridge, or two oncoming trucks side by side.
2. Asphalt-surfaced roads are often of poor quality. Badly broken tarmac can be more damaging than most unsurfaced roads. Beware potholes, even on apparently good asphalt roads - they can appear without warning.
3. Beware oncoming vehicles swerving on to your side to dodge potholes.
4. Worn verges can give advance warning that there are potholes ahead and that other vehicles have swerved off the road to miss them. Conversely, asphalt roads with a pristine grassy verge usually (but not always!) are an indication of a good surface.
5. Road surfaces are not always properly aligned to bridges, and bridges are often single track - a particular hazard if you are following (or overtaking!) another vehicle on a wide but dusty road. Often you will encounter a nasty bump on to a bridge and a drop off at the exit. This applies equally to modern asphalt roads as to unsurfaced ones.
6. Look out for police checkpoint barriers or road blocks, which are frequent in some countries. These are often hard to see and may consist of merely a piece of rope across the road. Always slow right down and stop unless waved on. Occasionally the police may wish to see your insurance documents or carnet, but just as often they will simply want a friendly chat.
7. Foliage and/or rocks are put on the road by vehicle drivers to signify a stationary vehicle. SLOW DOWN if you see these, especially in dust. (They don't always take them away when they leave.)
8. In Namibia and South Africa, there are many cattle grids on long, wide fast roads. Almost all these are single track and protected by narrow concrete buttresses. Watch out for these if overtaking in dust - they mostly have a warning triangle sign.
9. Many African vehicles run on a single headlight (or none at all!) Always assume that a single oncoming headlight is that of a large truck! Beware totally unlit vehicles. Other drivers will flash at you if you put your lights on before it is completely dark.
10. In Ethiopia, trucks will flash their offside indicator to show that it is safe to overtake - but do so with care!

3 Dust

1. Dust is a major feature of driving in Africa. Make sure your vehicle and equipment are as dust-proof as possible (seal as much as possible in plastic bags), but accept that dust will seep into every crevice. Change air filters regularly and site air cleaners high up.
2. If an oncoming vehicle is making a dust cloud over your side of the road, slow down and pull well over in case another oncoming vehicle is following the first (and trying to overtake it!)
3. Be very careful when overtaking another vehicle in dust. The driver probably has not seen you so put your lights on and use your air horns. Be patient.
4. On a twisty road, you will find it safer to overtake when there is a cross wind to blow the dust away. It is probably safer to overtake on the inside if the wind is blowing the dust away on that side - but make sure the other driver knows you are doing so!
5. Beware an inconsistent surface which causes patchy dust. Suddenly finding yourself in a dense dust cloud can leave you totally blind for several seconds.
6. Sudden very dense patches of dust are sometimes a sign of deep ruts or potholes.
7. Beware possible hazards in dust, such as a wide road suddenly crossing a single track bridge or narrow cattle grid, with no advance sign.

4 Animals and People

1. In much of Africa you will encounter lots of animals and people. Roads, especially asphalt, are often used for the movement of animals because they provide a better surface than the surrounding terrain.
2. People generally have little road sense. They walk in or across the road without warning; they are unused to vehicles driving at high speed so their reaction times tend to be slow. It is not unusual to find people sitting on the edge of the road, especially in villages.
3. If you are driving at dusk or night (and particularly in dust) people and animals are hard to see - more so than in Europe. Take nothing for granted.
4. Whilst most domestic animals tend to be moved off the road at night, in areas where there is wildlife, game tends to move on to the road after dark.
5. The normal reaction of a young goat or other animal, frightened by an approaching car or its horn, is to dash across the road to join its mother or herd. Young children may also behave the same way.
6. Always be particularly careful when driving through villages. At night time, beware of drunks.
7. If you are unfortunate enough to injure a pedestrian, you should think carefully about stopping; it is not unknown for villagers to attack motorists who are involved in this kind of accident.

5 Personal Security

There is no reason to be unduly alarmed about travelling in Africa. People, particularly in rural areas, are generally friendly, honest and helpful. However:

1. i Take commonsense precautions:
   keep your vehicle locked at all times (stationary or on the move) - especially tailgates and rear doors - close all windows when driving through towns or crowds
   stow all valuables out of sight
   if you have to park other than in the organisers’ supervised car parking, try to find a secure place (e g in a hotel car park)
   park with your boot or tailgate against a wall or tree
2. Keep a small amount of local currency or dollars handy for your immediate needs. Do not open a wallet stuffed with money in the presence of strangers.
3. You may be tempted to give money or other small gifts to children, e g when taking photos (they expect this). This is best done on an individual basis and not in the presence of a crowd, or you are likely to find yourself mobbed. Make sure you have an ‘escape route’ in case matters get out of hand. Give coins rather than notes.
4. In some of the wilder parts of the route you will encounter tribesmen carrying guns or other weapons. This is part of their lifestyle and should not be regarded as a threat. However, it would clearly be unadvisable to antagonise them!
5. Do not give lifts to anyone other than fellow-competitors. Begging lifts is a fact of life in Africa and we suggest that you refuse such requests unless there is a real genuine emergency. Even soldiers and the police will sometimes flag you down and ask for a lift: we suggest that you explain you are on a rally and politely refuse such requests.
6. Be careful about stopping to assist other motorists in trouble - bogus breakdowns or even accidents are a common hijackers’ ruse.

6 Photography

There are many places where you will wish to stop and take photographs or use a camcorder. In general there is no problem with this. However:

1. Do not photograph anything which could involve a country’s security. In African countries this tends to include airports, ports, border posts, any military establishments or vehicles, military or police personnel, and strategic bridges. For instance, it is strictly forbidden to photograph the bridge across the Blue Nile Gorge, Ethiopia - soldiers there will confiscate your film if you do so, and you could be seriously delayed.
2. If you wish to photograph local people, it is courteous to ask for their approval first and you may wish to reward them with a few coins or a gift of a biro, etc. (everywhere you go you will be asked for pens!) If they refuse, or demand an excessive amount of money, drive on. Please do not attempt to take a picture against their wishes and then disappear - this could cause trouble, such as stone throwing, for later participants. However, long-range shots of villages and scenery should not be a problem, provided you do not hang around for too long. Camel owners seem to be particularly sensitive about their animals being photographed. If you want a close-up shot it is best to negotiate first with the owner/herdsman.
3. Dust is an enemy of cameras and will cause scratches on film. Do not open your camera in a dusty environment; use a blower brush to clean the inside of the camera every time you change the film. Also, keep film and cameras in a cool place, away from the direct rays of the sun.
4. In some countries, you will be able to buy film only in the major cities and even there the more specialised types of film may not be readily available. Take plenty of film with you, plus spare batteries for your cameras.

7 Hotels

HERO’s hotels vary from the sumptuous to the primitive. Places like the Serena at Nairobi or the Table Bay at Cape Town are luxury international hotels of the highest standard of service and equipment.

However, in between major cities, you may be camping in your own tent or staying in small bush hotels and lodges. These are the best available, and some of them are excellent, especially the safari lodges run by the big groups.

Elsewhere, though, be warned that small African hotels are not up to European or American standards in the departments of plumbing, electrical installations, equipment or water purity. Such things as hot water, toilet seats and bath plugs are not to be taken for granted - so travel prepared!

Here is a list of things we advise you to take to your hotel room, even in quite sophisticated-looking establishments:

1. litre bottle of mineral water - don’t even clean your teeth in tap water!
2. roll of loo paper
3. bath plug
4. torch (some hotels/towns in poor countries turn off the electricity at night)
5. mosquito net (you’ll sleep much better if you know the little blighters can’t get you)
6. mosquito repellent (although there is a strong school of thought that these actually attract mosquitos!)
7. tooth mug (don’t use theirs to drink from)
8. bath towel
9. soap
10. cigarette lighter or matches (to light the candle or lamp you may find)
11. slippers or flip-flops (you never know what’s on the floor)

In the bush, remember to look inside your shoes before putting them on - there probably won’t be a scorpion inside, but better safe than sorry...

Our campsites, too, vary from the sophisticated (with loo paper and clean hot showers) to the primitive (no amenities at all), so come prepared - but remember the need to travel light, even if that sometimes means travelling dirty or smelly!

G Contact Addresses

Gordon Birtwhistle Proflex Ltd Unit 2 Wellgate Court Clitheroe North Yorkshire BB7 2DS tel: (+44/0) 1200 442 345	Signam Ltd Harris Road Warwick CV34 5FY tel: 01926 492685 fax: 01926 410244 Contact: Kirsty Wlson
Demon Tweeks 75 Ash Road South Wrexham Industrial Estate North Wales LL13 9UG tel: (+44/0) 1978 664466 fax: (+44/0 1978 664467	Tim Riley Tim Riley Engineering Kirby Grounds Blakesley Towcester Northants NN12 8RQ tel: (+44/0) 1327 860960 fax: (+44/0) 1327 860655
Bill Price Sandalwood Stocking Lane Hughenden Valley High Wycombe Bucks HP14 4NE tel: 01494 563001

Last modified 6 August 1999